The Best and Worst Skincare Ingredients According to Derms
The world of skincare is very susceptible
to trends. As a result, the risk of picking up skincare products that
are completely mismatched with your skin’s needs just because they’re
trendy or “natural” is pretty high. But remember - trends come and go,
but you only have one skin your entire life. Hence, it’s much cleverer
to stick to well-studied, effective skincare that you know your skin
loves and needs.
To find these optimal products for you, dermatologists recommend
examining the ingredients list of your skincare and picking products
with active ingredients aligned with your needs. For example, if you
struggle with hyperpigmentation, you need products that will brighten
and even out your skin tone.
Below we list 10 effective skincare ingredients and another 5 that
dermatologists recommend staying away from. We list the benefits of each
ingredient, explain how these ingredients can help the skin, and point
towards types of products that typically contain these ingredients.
Retinoids
If you’ve ever researched anti-aging
skincare, you’ve likely heard of retinol. This active ingredient is an
over-the-counter version of vitamin A, and it’s often called the “gold
standard of anti-aging skincare.” Retinol is a retinoid, and so are
retinal, tretinoin, and other retinol derivatives. All of these vitamin A
products work in a similar way, speeding up the natural skin turnover
cycle on a cellular level.
Apart from wrinkle prevention, vitamin A products can diminish fine
lines and treat acne. A 2017 study suggests that retinol can treat acne
and reduce skin inflammation, whereas an experiment from 2016 supports
the “anti-aging” benefits of retinol.
Retinol is present in all kinds of skincare products - from eye creams
to serums, oils, and facial moisturizers. Tretinoin and some other
retinoids are not available over-the-counter; gels containing tretinoin
can only be prescribed by a doctor. The only exclusion to that rule in
the US is Differin gel - a retinoid available without a prescription.
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3, or niacinamide, is a rising
star in the skincare world, and for good reason. This stable,
cell-communicating ingredient has several benefits for the skin, namely:
Minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Reduces redness
Evens out the skin tone
Diminishes acne
Provides anti-inflammatory properties
Boosts your sunscreen’s UV protection
Lessens skin oil production and refines the appearance of pores.
So who will benefit from this ingredient? According to a 2021 review,
this ingredient can help you address a number of skin concerns, from
hyperpigmentation to skin redness, wrinkles, overly oily skin, and acne.
Since niacinamide is a very stable ingredient, it’s readily available in
countless skincare products, including moisturizers and serums.
Green tea extract
Rich in EGCG and many other antioxidants,
green tea is a great drink to enjoy. But these very same antioxidants
are also beneficial for the skin. A concentrated (and often fermented)
form of green tea called green tea extract is very hydrating and
soothing for the skin. It also helps reduce skin redness and protects
the skin from the sun’s UV radiation and its harmful effects. A 2019
study also suggests that green tea extract has anti-aging benefits.
You can use strong lukewarm green tea as a hydrating toner. However, the
benefits of skincare products containing green tea extract will be more
concentrated and potent. Skin toners and many skincare products for the
eye area, such as eye cream or eye patches, often contain green tea
extract.
Azelaic acid
Don’t be frightened by the word ‘acid’ in
this ingredient. This active skincare ingredient is never harsh or
irritating on the skin. On the contrary, azelaic acid has potent
anti-inflammatory properties, and it’s widely used to treat acne and
rosacea (a skin condition that causes blushing, redness, and visible
blood vessels in the skin of the face).
According to a 2022 review study, azelaic acid is an effective rosacea
treatment and an ingredient that’s beneficial for acne. Another study
from 2020 also suggests that azelaic acid is just as effective as
tretinoin but less effective than benzoyl peroxide at treating acne.
However, unlike the latter, azelaic acid is less likely to dry out and
irritate the skin.
This ingredient can be found at a concentration of 10 percent or less in
over-the-counter treatments, such as facial moisturizers, lotions,
toners, and serums. Products with 15 percent azelaic acid can only be
prescribed by a dermatologist.
Please note that azelaic acid doesn’t exfoliate the skin as well as some
other acid ingredients. If you’re looking for an exfoliating acid,
Zinc
Zinc is a mineral we need in our diets to
stay healthy. Among the many health benefits of zinc is its
anti-inflammatory effect on the skin and faster wound healing. For this
reason, zinc is present in many skincare products formulated to treat
acne, rosacea, and eczema.
Zinc eradicates the P. acnes bacteria that cause pimples and reduces
skin oiliness too, making it a great ingredient to prevent or reduce
acne. A 2014 review study also suggests that applying zinc topically can
help treat eczema and rosacea.
Although few skincare ingredients will advertise having zinc on the
bottle, you can turn to the ingredients list and often find it there.
Peptides
Peptides are the amino acids that make up
our skin cells. These days, scientists have started making peptides that
are easily absorbed by the skin in the lab. Applying products with
peptides on the skin can boost the production of collagen, elastin, and
hyaluronic acid, which, in turn, slows down the signs of aging and give
you stronger, firmer skin.
Smaller studies confirm that applying products with peptides in them for
2 weeks or more can reduce the appearance of wrinkles. So, if you’re
concerned with aging skin, pick up a cream with peptides in it. The name
‘peptide’ is often part of the ingredient in the INCI list. Some
examples include Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Tripeptide 1, and Palmitoyl
pentapeptide (also known as Matrixyl 3000).
Ceramides
Ceramides are another group of ingredients
that mimic the natural compounds of the skin. These are skincare
ingredients that have the shape of fatty acids naturally produced by the
skin. When applied to the skin, ceramides help moisturize and protect
the skin from environmental pollutants, dry air, and cold or hot
weather.
Ceramides will not clog pores, so they can be used by any skin type, but
people with a weak skin barrier and those with dry skin will notice
greater benefits from ceramide moisturizers. According to a 2020
research paper, people with eczema have found that applying a lotion
with ceramides to the affected areas improved skin hydration and
relieved skin dryness.
Like peptides, these ingredients are mainly easy to spot in an
ingredients list, as they contain the word ‘ceramide.’ Ceramide 1,
ceramide 6, and phytosphingosine are just 3 examples of many existing
ceramides in skincare products.
Thermal water
Never heard of thermal water? This
ingredient is a classic in French skincare (and you know you can trust
French women to know their skincare). Thermal water is mineral-rich
water that improves skin suppleness, protects the skin from free
radicals, and reduces skin irritation and redness. There’s also some
evidence suggesting it can balance the skin’s microbiome, which is why
many people with eczema and psoriasis find that thermal water helps calm
their skin.
Using thermal water is easy. Simply spray your face with thermal water
to cool off and rehydrate throughout the day, or use it as a hydrating
toner after washing your face but before applying moisturizer. Last but
not least, misting the skin with thermal water on a flight works great
too.
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is another very famous
skincare ingredient. You may have even heard that this hydrating
ingredient can retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water, which is
true. This means that it’s super hydrating for the skin, and
dermatologists say that it can make your skin appear plumper too.
Hyaluronic acid is naturally produced in the body, but with age, we
produce less and less of it, which can make your skin appear parched.
Adding some topical hyaluronic acid through a hydrating serum or
moisturizer will help restore its natural levels in the skin.
According to a 2021 experiment, middle-aged women noticed improved skin
smoothness, hydration, and plumping, as well as a reduction in fine
lines and wrinkles when they used hyaluronic acid topically on a daily
basis.
Vitamins C and E
Vitamin C is often advertised as one of the
most potent brightening and anti-aging skincare ingredients. But few
people are aware that it works best when it’s combined with its less
glamorous sister ingredient - vitamin E. So, what do these two vitamins
do for your skin, and why are they best used in tandem?
Vitamin C - ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as ascorbyl
palmitate - is a potent antioxidant that protects your skin from damage,
maintains collagen production, and helps fade hyperpigmentation (such
as sun spots and acne scars). This makes vitamin C an excellent
ingredient for mature skin. According to a 2017 research paper, applying
vitamin C to the skin has an anti-aging effect.
Vitamin E is also a strong antioxidant. It protects the skin from
environmental damage and makes your skin’s barrier more resilient. When
combined with vitamin C, vitamin E can reduce your risk of sun damage,
hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer according to a 2016 research paper.
That is why you’ll often find these two ingredients in facial sunscreens
and anti-aging serums. Do keep in mind, however, that you don’t have to
apply these ingredients to the skin to reap their benefits. Getting
them through consuming plenty of vegetables and fruit works just as
well, if not better.
Should I avoid any specific skincare ingredients?
Dermatologists say that the skincare
ingredients you need will largely depend on your skin type. Even those
tried and tested ingredients we list above don’t work for everyone. So
the best course of action is to try a variety of ingredients, one at a
time, and see what works and what doesn’t.
That being said, there are certain ingredients generally known to
irritate and harm the skin. These include:
Synthetic fragrance and coloring are known skin irritants. Skip
them.
Coconut oil is great for the hair and body, but on the face, it can
clog your pores and cause acne.
Essential oils - these can be irritating, and you can build up a
skin allergy to certain oils, especially citrus, bergamot, and lavender
essential oil.
Propylene glycol - this preservative is used to extend the
shelf-life of skin-care products, but it’s irritating so often that the
Contact Dermatitis Society called it the 2018 Allergen of the Year.
Note that we didn’t mention all common and effective skincare
ingredients in this list. These are just some of the most
well-researched, effective, and non-irritating ingredients backed by
dermatologists.